Fujifilm xt3 frame1/14/2024 I have put the X-series cameras through their paces in all sorts of ridiculous conditions and have been very impressed. I have no complaints with the DR, it is quite close to the D850 and it’s still always better to blend images for maximum quality if that is your concern. ![]() The other options are to use Affinity Photo, Capture One Express Fujifilm, or RAW Therapee, all of which do a great job processing X-Trans files.ĭynamic range is still good on the X-T3, it hasn’t changed much from the X-T2, just better at ISO 160, but nothing you would notice in most situations. ![]() If you’re not a pixel peeper you will likely never notice the worm issue using the settings above. It’s a fairly painless process and it’s not like I’m converting every single image, just the very best. The easiest solution is to use Iridient X-Transformer which will process the raw file for sharpening and noise reduction, then bring a DNG back into Lightroom where you can do your final processing. You do end up with a mushy mess when working with foliage in Adobe products. There are a few scenarios where I have to use an add-on product to help alleviate the worms, if I have an image with a lot of fine detail, or when dealing with foliage. This gives a subtle amount of sharpening that removes the softness from a raw file which is what you want. The setting I use for sharpening is an amount around 100, Radius of 0.8, and Detail of 0. I have found that the detail slider (for Sharpening) in Lightroom is what causes worms, in fact it does this with most cameras and should be watched carefully, it’s just more apparent with the X-Trans. I use Lightroom to process all of my images and am very happy with the results. It’s somewhat true that Adobe has done a poor job of processing X-trans files, I wish it was better. If you have done any research you have surely come across the discussion of X-trans sensors creating worms when sharpening, especially with Photoshop or Lightroom. ![]() Let’s deal with the 500 pound gorilla in the room first worms. Do you really need all those MP’s for something you will post to the web at 1500px? Do you really need them for a 30×42 print that if you step back from and view at a reasonable distance you will never know the difference? Photographers tend to focus more on the gear rather than the meaning behind an image. Megapixels are a ridiculous metric that people continue to chase, it seems there are never enough. You are made to believe that your images are terrible if you’re not shooting with a full-frame camera that has at least 45 megapixels! The reality is that cropped sensors have come a long way and they are incredibly capable these days. Yes, it has a cropped APS-C sensor and ‘only’ 26.1 megapixels. However, the camera's manual clearly says that file numbers (the last 4 digits of the filename/frame number) are reset to 0001 (note: not 9001) only when the memory card is formatted or new card inserted, i.e.There are a lot of naysayers when it comes to the Fujifilm X-Series for nature photography. setting is changed to RENEW, then the filename restart at DSCF9001 after each transfer from memory card to PC. I use my digital/media asset manager instead to organise projects, albums, smart albums etc. This caused a problem when transferring to my PC as all photos go into one folder on the PC called simply 2020. However, after the filenames maxed out at DSCF9999 (frame number 999-9999) the names started again at DSCF9001 (frame number 999-9001), not DSCF0001 or shutter release disabled as expected. (** via: MENU/OK > set up menu #2 > SAVE DATA SET-UP > FRAME NO.). ![]() This is all fine and makes sense as the FRAME NO. if the last photo taken and transferred to my PC was DSCF9500 (frame number 999-9500), then the next photo taken would be named DSCF9501 (frame number 999-9501). Frame numbers are of the format ddd-nnnn (where ddd = directory/folder number and nnnn is the file number).Īfter transferring photos to my PC (using the USB cable) after each session, the filename numbering carried on sequentially from the last photo taken and transferred, e.g. When I got the camera (very recently an X-A5) the filename numbering began at DSCF9001 (frame number 999-9001). Currently, all my images are saved by the camera to the memory card in a folder/directory 999_FUJI.
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